By Matthew Welsch – Executive Chef for West Virginia State Parks and Resorts
Things start to green up in March, and it’s not just the return of grass or early buds on trees. ‘Tis the time of year that some folks are throwing back green beers and buying into Hallmark leprechauns, but not you, my friends. Because you have a guide to true Irish culture, and it’s not the travesty that St. Patrick’s Day has become in the States. No one should ever drink green beer, leprechauns are not to be trusted, and the true pot of gold isn’t coins — it’s butter.
Growing up, my family listened to Irish folk music every Sunday after church. Our Irish ancestry was deeply important to us and part of our identity. When I finally made my own pilgrimage to the Emerald Isle several years ago, it truly felt like coming home.
But speaking of stereotypes, one Irish stereotype we all know is, in fact, true. We love our potatoes, boy-o!
Now I don’t know this for a fact, and it’s not based on any historical evidence, but one reason the Irish may love potatoes so much is that they have such amazing butter, and nothing goes better with a potato than some salt and some rich, golden butter.
There isn’t one combination of salt, butter, and potatoes that will steer you wrong, but here’s one that will steer you perfectly right — Colcannon.
You may not be familiar with colcannon, but you most certainly are with its much less interesting cousin, mashed potatoes. Why we trot mashed potatoes out at any given holiday, meanwhile, colcannon lives in obscurity is both a crime and a travesty. One that I aim to fix this St. Paddy’s season with your help.
Essentially, colcannon is mashed potatoes with the addition of some vegetables. You’ll see cabbage mixed in. A recipe I treasure in an old cookbook called “Dublin Colcannon” calls for leeks and kale. However, all bets are off, and I encourage you to find your own family favorite.
At Vagabond Kitchen, we like to surround a beautiful island of colcannon with an Irish Sea of lamb stew. Colcannon can be a side, a main, or even a vessel.
Then, there’s the true prize. Colcannon literally swims in liquid gold — Irish butter.
Irish Colcannon
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
2 lbs gold potatoes, peeled and sliced ½” thick
8 ounces of kale or cabbage
8 tablespoons of Irish Gold (butter)
¾ C of roasted garlic, caramelized onions, thinly sliced leeks, or green onions
1 C whole milk
½ C heavy cream
TT kosher salt and coarse grind black pepper
Boil potatoes with 1 tablespoon of salt until fork-tender, and heat milk and cream up to steaming, but not boiling. While the potatoes are boiling, cut and cook your kale or cabbage until tender. When cutting it up, think of a size that will make an easy bite. I suggest sauteeing the kale or cabbage in bacon fat with a little salt and pepper. If using roasted garlic or leeks, add them to kale or cabbage towards the end.
Once the potatoes are fork-tender, drain most of the water off, but don’t worry about getting them too dry. I prefer to use a potato masher. Once the potatoes are basically broken down, start adding butter one pat at a time. Then, salt and pepper to taste, and fold in cooked vegetables and/or fresh, thinly sliced green onions. Finally, add warm milk and cream and adjust butter, salt, and pepper levels. I suggest plenty of tasting to make sure you’ve got it right!
Serve colcannon topped with a couple extra pats of liquid gold and enjoy! Slainte!
